The dark ruby-colored 1998 Fergus (a Grenache-dominated blend with small quantities of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Shiraz, and Malbec, that sees no new oak) offers a moderately intense nose of blackberries, cherry liqueur, pepper, dried herbs, and earth. Round and dense, this succulent, exuberantly fruity, full-bodied wine is fun. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. A Ted Schrauth Selection, Old Vines Australia, imported by Epic Wines, Santa Cruz, CA; tel. (408) 689-9080, and C. Daniele, New York, NY; tel. (212) 534-3421