The 2005 Shiraz “Heysen” is a blend of three vineyards. It was aged in 40% new French oak, 20% new American oak, and the balance neutral French. The nose reveals wood smoke, toast, game, bacon, blueberry, and blackberry. This leads to an opulent, complex, and intensely flavored wine which merits 6-8 years in the cellar. This lengthy wine will drink well through 2025. Importer: Michael Opdahl, Joshua Tree Imports, Duarte, CA; www.rolfbinder.com

Somehow winemaker Rolf Binder manages to combine cool, savory aspects with bold, ripe-fruit flavors. The 2005 Heysen marries cinnamon, clove and peppery spice with blackberries and plums, tying it all together with a robe of vanilla and chocolaty oak and finishing with a hint of espresso. This is a creamy, full-bodied wine whose fruit conceals considerable tannin; drink 2010–2020.——J.C.(11/1/2007)—— 93