A more perplexing offering, the 1998 Shiraz Heysen displays plenty of kirsch and blackberry fruit as well as hints of Chinese black tea, meat, and roasted herbs presented in a rich, full-bodied, impressively endowed style. It should evolve for a decade or more.This is the home estate of Rolf Binder, one of the most talented winemakers in South Australia. As the tasting notes indicate, these wines are holding up beautifully.