Domaine de la Mordoree remains the reference point for how good Lirac can be. It is an appellation with tremendous potential, and a number of Chateauneuf du Pape estates are buying up vineyards in the appellation. The 2009 Lirac Cuvee de la Reine des Bois is another star from Christophe Delorme. Loads of kirsch, black currant and crushed rock notes along with a hint of spring flowers are all present in this dense purple, medium to full-bodied, delicious wine, which should drink nicely for 7-8 years.Christophe Delorme continues to fashion some of Chateauneuf du Pape’s most exciting wines (as well as Lirac, roses from Tavel, and sensational Cotes du Rhones).Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228

O.K., so it’s a New World-ish blend of fruit and oak, but leaving stylistic prejudices aside, it’s also a darn fine wine. Black cherry fruit balances the cedar and vanilla nicely, while the texture is rich yet supple and the finish lingers a good long time. Drink now–2018. ——J.C.(10/1/2011)—— 91