The 2006 Chablis Valmur – from some very young vines and some 60 years old – is dripping with lusciously ripe peach and grapefruit; much more forward, open and enveloping than the other wines in Droin’s collection at this stage; and for all of its generous richness, is bright, refined, and penetrating in a finish tinged with salt, pepper, lime zest, and chalk dust. It was rendered in a roughly 40:60 ratio of barrel to tank. Benoit Droin’s recent collections display increasing mastery of his medium and continued willingness to experiment, even as he extends his range of crus. His have become some of the most interesting wines in Chablis, not to mention being outstanding values. Droin prides himself on being able to harvest ahead of most of his colleagues – which in 2006 meant in advance of the official starting date – although he adds that 2007 has proved an exception to that rule. Droin by choice sells what for the region constitutes a relatively high one third share of his wine inside France.Importer: Eric Solomon Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565