Floral and round, and eminently approachable at this early stage. The bouquet is rosy and sweet, while the palate is easygoing and fresh. Yet once you think its aging potential might be short, the finish drives on for a long distance, tossing up coffee and earth notes. Drinkable now, but can last for at least a decade. ——M.S.(6/1/2004)—— 91