The 2009 Syrah High Density is more interesting than the Verna’s. It shows the darker side of Syrah, with an array of black fruit, spices, licorice and new leather. Floral and mineral notes reappear on the finish, adding considerable freshness and lift. Some elements of wildness remain. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. Melville is one of the better known properties in Santa Barbara. The estate makes a wide range of wines under the direction of oenologist Greg Brewer, and also sells fruit to a number of other producers. The 2009 Pinot Noirs in particular are standouts. Brewer vinified the Pinots with one-third whole clusters. The 2010 Chardonnays had only recently been bottled and needed quite a bit of air to blow off some of their reductive qualities.Tel. (805) 735-7030; www.melvillewinery.com