The 2017 Meursault Désirée wafts from the glass with appealing aromas of ripe lemons, orange blossom, pastry cream and beeswax. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and gourmand, underpinned by succulent but ripe acids. This younger vine cuvée—the parcel was replanted in 2007-2008 and made its comeback with the 2012 vintage—hasn't yet attained the fleshy amplitude that used to distinguish it, but it makes progress every year. It hails from a warm site near Santenots, just below Meursault's campground.