The 2008 Rosso di Montalcino opens with promising, expressive aromatics that lead to an initial burst of fruit. The wine then loses some of its intensity on the mid-palate, revealing hard, rough tannins that are uncharacteristic. Ideally the wine is best enjoyed upon release. In its finest vintages, Pacenti’s Rosso can last ten years or more. A recent bottle of the 2001 was gorgeous. Vintage 2008, however, did not give Pacenti anywhere near as much quality with which to work. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. Giancarlo Pacenti continues to prove he has the magic touch when it comes to making rich, textured wines that show plenty of Sangiovese character. My visit this year with Pacenti was fascinating as I had an opportunity to taste through a number of older Brunellos going back to 1988, most of which have aged very well. Pacenti is one of the few producers who does not believe in the single-vineyard approach to Brunello, preferring to blend fruit from plots near his winery, on the northern side of Montalcino, with those he owns in the southern part of the region. The Brunello PS, a single-plot Brunello Pacenti made for the first time in 2004 (there will be no 2005) is the exception. The Rosso is a second selection of barrels that don’t reach Pacenti’s exacting standard for Brunello. All of the wines are aged in French oak. Importer: Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300