From the 2004 Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Spatlese rise aromas of honey, grapefruit, candied lemon and blueberries. Blue fruit and honey are poured over the palate as well, creamy and rich, yet animated by insistently bright citricity, high-toned esters of distilled berries, nippy notes of invigoratingly tart fruit skin, and mineral salts. The finish is a veritable fugue of intricate flavors, exhibiting astonishing clarity and length. Less ethereal than the Norheim Spatlesen, this is uncanny in its balance and complexity and, given the proclivities of young Spatlese from this site, certainly a bit behind the other Spatlesen of this collection in its development. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300