Fresh red raspberry, green tea, and thyme in the rather restrained nose of Donnhoff's 2008 Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Spatlese lead into a creamily-textured yet at the same time both palpably dense and vivaciously citric and tart berry palate, setting up a dynamic interplay with herbal, bitter-sweet citrus oil, and somehow crystalline as well as stony and alkaline mineral skeins. You could easily get lost in this wine. But I would advise returning to it repeatedly over the next 20 or more years. It was back to the roots this year, announced a beaming Helmut Donnhoff when I arrived to taste his 2008s. He harvested in the last week of October and first half of November during which time he characterized the weather as cool and stable. I can guarantee you, he added, that we didn't for a single day have muddy boots. Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300