The estate’s 2004 Barolo Bricco Sarmassa adds additional layers of mentholated, balsamic notes that swirl around in the glass, rounding out the wine’s dense core of ripe dark fruit. This Barolo finishes with exceptional length even if the building tannins mask much of the wine’s inner sweetness. Still, there are enough glimpses of glory to make me think this wine will develop into a gem with time. As the name suggests, Bricco Sarmassa is a selection of fruit from the highest part of the Sarmassa vineyard. This bottling is only produced in top vintages. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024.
This is a very strong set of Barolos from Brezza, a producer who has ratcheted up their quality significantly over the last few years. The wines are aged in cask, which results in a traditional expression of Nebbiolo aromas and flavors that requires at least a few years of bottle age to emerge. A recent bottle of the estate’s 1978 Barolo Riserva Speciale was indeed quite special.
Importer: An Acid Inc. Selection for Angels' Share Wines, Brooklyn, NY; tel. (917) 687-4848