Maturing nicely, yet still lively, this red is focused and fresh, with black cherry, licorice, tobacco and cola notes over firm, well-integrated tannins. A sleek, alluring wine. Drink now through 2009. 200 cases imported.??–TM??Region: Spain / Rioja Select to Add

CUNE is a throwback bodega whose wines won’t appeal to followers of the new wave. And since I consider myself a backer of the modern style, I found this wine too obtuse, funky and borderline dirty to rate higher. It’s full of mossy, stewy flavors and the feel is heavy. Traditionalist, however, may find it worthy of greater praise.——M.S.(9/1/2007)—— 84