Past vintages of Imperial Gran Reserva have seemed sharp and dilute; not the 1998, which is resolute in its delivery of cumin, root beer and subtle raspberry aromas. The palate has nice primary cherry and berry flavors, solid tannins and welcome but not overwhelming acidity. Notice a touch of dill and butter on the finish, a reflection of traditional American oak aging.——M.S.(8/1/2008)—— 91