The vineyard is in the cooler, western part of the AVA, and the wine opens with a promising blast of white pepper. Turns rich, full-bodied and complex, with an array of blackberry, plum, coffee, cigar tobacco, spice and oak notes. The tannins are fairly thick and astringent, suggesting lamb, pork tenderloin or similar fare.——S.H.(4/1/2005)—— 92