The 2004 Pinot Noir “Red Hills Estate” was fermented with indigenous yeasts and spent 13 months in 70% new French oak. It delivers the best perfume of this quartet of wines with notes of pain grille, red cherries, black currants, roses, and cola. The wine’s components are well-integrated in its medium-bodied, plush personality but ultimately the wine is slightly shallow and lacking concentration. It may evolve but I’d opt for drinking it over the next 6-8 years. Tel. (800) 732-8822; www.archerysummit.com

The Red Hills Estate bottling sends a spicy note sailing out of the glass, with a pleasing follow-up of red currant, cherry, cinnamon and vanilla. Medium-bodied and displaying a core of tart fruit, this tails off into a tannic finish that needs a bit more polish.——P.G.(2/1/2008)—— 87