Three separate tastings of the 1996 Clos de l'Obac reinforced my initial impression that this is the most backward and tannic wine this estate has yet produced. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Syrah, Merlot, and Carignan, it spent 14 months in 100% new French oak, and was bottled unfiltered. While the average age of the Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Merlot is 10 years, the Grenache and Carignan date from vineyards planted in 1945, 1950, and the early 1900's. The wine may merit an outstanding score with another 2-3 years of bottle age. At present, it is light, acidic and tannic. The color is a medium deep ruby. The tight nose offers scents of kirsch, minerals, smoke, and pain grille. In the mouth, both the acidity and tannin are high, and the wine elegant and restrained, with impressive purity and richness, but very closed and difficult to assess (thus the question mark). Although it gives the impression of weight and richness, the mouth-searing tannin combined with its tart acids keep the finish compressed and tightly wound. Give this effort 4-5 years of cellaring; it has the potential to last for 2 decades. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

Vivid and elegant, this polished red offers well-defined flavors of raspberry, cherry, toast and smoke, with harmonious tannins and acidity that keep the wine in balance. More graceful than muscular, but has the structure to age. Drink now through 2010.??–TM??Region: Spain / Priorat Select to Add