The 1989 Barbaresco-Santo Stefano red label (which Giacosa compares to the 1982) is a firm, closed, densely concentrated wine that gives only hints of its potential. With airing, it offers up a sweet, gamey, cherry, and tobacco-scented perfume. However, its richness is most noticeable at the back of the palate. Its full-bodied personality exhibits considerable tannin. Seven hundred cases of this wine were made for release later this year. It is refreshing that Bruno Giacosa, the quiet and dignified winemaking genius of Neive, is the least promotion-conscious winemaker in Italy. Justifiably, he prefers to let his wines do the talking for him. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY.