Purists will adore the 1993 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, a steely, racy vintage that has evolved marvelously in bottle. Aromas of dried white flowers, mandarin and lemon oil mingle with scents of beeswax, vanilla pod, saffron and warm bread in a complex bouquet, introducing a full-bodied, ample and incisive wine with a deep, layered and tensile mid-palate, striking energy and concentration and a long, penetrating finish. This utterly classic Chevalier is drinking very well today, but well-cellared bottles will easily enjoy another decade's longevity. Served on its own, rather than alongside the ampler, more powerful 1992, 1990 and 1989, this overlooked vintage might well merit a higher score. By the numbers, it attained 13.66% alcohol and a pH of 3.12.