A charming, fleshy wine, the 2009 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru offers up a generous bouquet of ripe citrus fruit, confit lemon, pears, warm bread, honeycomb and mandarin. On the palate, it's full-bodied, lavish and enveloping, with a textural attack, a rich and ample core of fruit and a long, expansive finish. This is a ripe but open-knit vintage of Leflaive's Chevalier, even though with 13.45% alcohol it's lower-octane than all the top vintages of the Pierre Morey era. If the wine has a fault, it's one extensible to the vintage as a whole: a lack of liveliness and tension.