Leflaive's 1995 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is showing well, unfurling in the glass with a complex and rich bouquet of peach, mandarin, confit lemon, honeycomb, saffron and freshly baked bread. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny and layered, with a deep and concentrated core, its chewy chassis of dry extract enveloped in fleshy fruit, and it's still lively and vibrant as it approaches its 24th birthday. This was a year of low yields—a cold spell disrupted flowering—and a warm summer, and that's reflected by this muscular, powerful Chevalier.