This was by some margin the best bottle that I've encountered to date of Leflaive's 2002 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, and the wine is beginning to become very interesting on the nose, wafting from the glass with complex aromas of citrus oil, mandarin, warm bread, fresh peach, pear and vanilla pod. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny and layered, with a fleshy, multidimensional core, lively acids and an elegant profile, without the muscle of a vintage such as 2005 or 1989 but with more concentration than a supple, open-knit year such as 2000. By the numbers, it's 14% alcohol with a pH of 3.24.