Made from 100% Aglianico, the 1994 Taurasi is a solidly made, ruggedly constructed, chewy red with a medium ruby color, and a sweet black cherry-scented nose intermingled with notes of earth, saddle leather, and roasted almonds. There is admirable depth, an exuberant personality, and a soft, lightly tannic finish. Drink it over the next 2-3 years.A Leonardo Locasio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

From vineyards in Avellino, this 100% Aglianico is considered to be the king of Campanian reds. It’s aged 18 months in French barriques and it comes across as a baby Barolo. It has Barolo-like concentration and rusticity, and the blackberry and blueberry fruit and chocolate flavors will bowl you over.——M.S.(11/15/1999)—— 92