It would seem illogical that a full-time microbiologist, who is working part-time out of a warehouse in Novato, produces some of California's most profound and long-lived wines. The 1988 Chardonnay Cuvee LD is more developed and precocious than most Kalin Chardonnays tend to be. It possesses an attractive toasty, lemony, apple-scented nose, ripe, tasty, medium-bodied flavors with a nice inner-core of fruit, and a long, crisp, natural-tasting finish. Drinkable now, it should easily last for 4-5 years.