It would seem illogical that a full-time microbiologist, who is working part-time out of a warehouse in Novato, produces some of California's most profound and long-lived wines. The 1989 Chardonnay-Cuvee LD reveals a tight, almost Meursault-like, hazelnut, smoky fruitiness, extremely high natural acidity, and a long, ripe, crisp, concentrated finish. Like so many of Kalin's Chardonnays, it is tightly wound and needs at least 2 years of cellaring to fully express itself.