The 1978 Chateau Margaux is a significant wine for two reasons: that is was the first under the Mentzelopoulos family after acquiring the property and also, it was their best wine in many years. Today it is still going strong. Clear in color, it has quite a deep garnet core. The nose is very seductive with black fruit, leather, scorched earth, a hint of lavender all beautifully defined and quintessentially Margaux. The medium-bodied palate has exquisite balance, the acidity nicely judged, still a little masculine and "solid" compared to the subsequent vintages under Paul Pontallier, yet fresh and vital. Sure, there is a grittiness and a touch of rusticity towards the finish, but all in all, this represents a great 1978 Left Bank and a signpost that the First Growth was back on the right track after a dismal run of vintages during the 1970s. Tasted May 2016.

Although the 1978 is a more powerful, fuller-bodied style of Margaux, it is less charming and fruity than the 1979. The 1978's nose has moved from one of ripe fruit and spicy oak, to tarry, truffle, earthy aromas that come across as slightly too masculine and meaty. Nevertheless, this is a rich, full-bodied, concentrated Margaux that only suffers in comparison with the great vintages produced under the Mentzelopoulos regime. Some of its rusticity may be due to tannins that were not totally ripe during the harvest. In any event, it remains one of the few great wines from the 1978 vintage. While I initially thought it would be fully mature within two decades of the vintage, it could still benefit from another 3-4 years of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2000-2020. Last tasted 12/96