This wine, which comes from a vineyard planted in 1904, spends 22 months in new American oak. A dense plum/purple color is followed by aggressive oak aromas intermixed with mint, black raspberries, and blackberries. This medium to full-bodied 1998 is not the blockbuster I expected given the vintage, but it is nicely concentrated, cleanly made, and spicy/peppery. Revealing some tannin and adequate acidity, it can be drunk now as well as over the next decade. A Ted Schrauth Selection, Old Vines Australia, imported by Epic Wines, Santa Cruz, CA; tel. (831) 689-9080, and C. Daniele, New York, NY; tel. (212) 534-3421