The evolved light to medium gold-colored 1998 Chardonnay Tinaquaic Vineyard is oaky as well as controversial. It displays a bouquet of roasted fruit, caramel, butter, and toast that suggests full maturity. It is voluminous, rich, textured, layered, and thick, but the oak is heavy-handed. Nevertheless, there is a lot to like. Consume this Chardonnay over the next 1-2 years. Tel. (805) 937-4251

The pleasant nose of nuts, green apples and caramel also shows an odd whiff that mattered more to some tasters than others. Light apple fruit, spice, earth and butterscotch notes play on the full, but vaguely sour milk-tinged palate. Finishes tart and dry with slight mineral notes, in the manner of some white Burgundies. We’ve been big fans of Foxen’s wines in the past, but this one left us scratching our heads.——W.E.(7/1/2001)—— 86