This bottling by veteran Foxen offers one of the starkest, most appealing choices available in California Chardonnay. Far from a superripe buttery monster, it’s a lean, elegant machine. With vibrant acidity and a mineral undergirding, it offers rich flavors of citrus fruits and rind and yeasty, Champagne-like lees.——S.H.(12/31/2008)—— 94