There is a lovely purity to Pieri’s 2003 Brunello di Montalcino. This big, brooding wine exudes the essence of black cherries, licorice, plums, earthiness, smoke, toasted oak and tar with superior density and length. The firm 2003 tannins are there, but the wine appears to have the expansiveness to fill out its medium to full-bodied frame nicely. Another year or two in bottle should help the wine come together even more. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2018. Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

Deep, dark and penetrating aromas of prune, plum and blackberry are followed by drying tones of slate roof and mineral powder. This is a particularly heavy and thickly extracted expression of Brunello with spicy, green flavors and astringent tannins.——M.L.(5/1/2009)—— 85