The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino is compelling from the very first taste. It boasts fabulous concentration and depth, with just enough tannin and aromatic complexity to balance some of the wine’s more overt leanings. Dark red cherries, flowers, licorice, mint and spices are layered into the big, dramatic finish. Hints of kirsch and rose petals linger in the empty glass. The 2007 is distinguished by an open, Pinot-like bouquet and a voluptuous personality. The wine was aged one year in cask and a second year in 600-liter demi-muids. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027. Proprietor Francesco Monaci and consulting oenologist Fabrizio Moltard showed me a wide range of wines during my recent visit. Monaci describes 2007 as a year with no winter. Overall temperatures were warmer than normal, but without heat spikes. The harvest took place in the early part of September, about ten days earlier than normal. The estate is gradually moving to a greater use of cask for its Brunello, a change that is allowing much more nuance to come through in the wines. As always, fermentations are done with indigenous yeasts and the malos take place in oak. All of the estate’s vineyards are Brunello-designated, including those used for the Rosso. Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

A medium-weight, lithe red, featuring spice notes to accent cherry, strawberry and underbrush flavors. This is ripe and focused, with a lingering, spicy aftertaste. Best from 2014 through 2025. 1,500 cases made, 200 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Italy / Brunello di Montalcino Select to Add

A delicate and subtle expression of Sangiovese Grosso, with tight touches of wild berry, almond skin, forest bramble, rum cake, cola and eucalyptus. Streamlined and tight, with great power on the close. A very compact and tightly constructed wine. ——M.L.(5/1/2012)—— 89