The 2005 Pinot Noir “Shea Vineyard” is purple-colored with a superb aromatic array of pain grille, earth, spice box, black cherry, blueberry, and black raspberry. The wine is medium- to full-bodied with unusual depth for the vintage. There are layers of flavor, great integration, and a very long finish. Give it 4-6 years to open and drink it through 2027. Ken Wright has a Syrah/Claret project under the Tyrus Evans label. The fruit is sourced from southern Oregon and eastern Washington. I tasted four wines, all of them outstanding. I list them without tasting notes: 2004 Claret “Del Rio Vineyard – 90; 2004 Claret “Ciel du Cheval Vineyard” – 91; 2005 Syrah, Walla Walla – 92; 2005 Syrah “Del Rio Vineyard” – 90+. Ken Wright Cellars has long been one of the reference points for Pinot Noir fanatics. Ken Wright is the ultimate terroirist, stating on his web site (which I highly recommend reading) that the value of Pinot Noir is that it is the perfect vehicle for expressing the characteristics of the site in which it is grown. He says that the secret to making great Pinot Noir is “?learning how to farm. Every vineyard has its own issues.” Tel. (800) 571-6825; www.kenwrightcellars.com. Also tasted: 2005 Pinot Blanc (91), 2005 Chardonnay “Celilo Vineyard” (93)

Shea has undergone extensive, phylloxera-driven replanting in recent years, and the new vines do not have the power and complexity of the originals. Nonetheless, the estate’s characteristic black cherry fruit core comes through, lightly spiced with notes of cinnamon and hints of herb. It’s forward and chunky and shows a slight bit of heat in the finish. A solid effort, just not up to the complexity of the others in the 2005 lineup. ——P.G.(4/1/2007)—— 89