The 2008 Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard surrenders a sexy nose of underbrush, a hint of mineral, smoke, cherry blossom, incense, and assorted red fruits. Seamless on the palate with a satin texture, intense ripe fruit flavors, lively acidity, and outstanding length, this densely packed effort admirably combines elegance and power. This pleasure-bent effort should age gracefully and see its 20th birthday in fine form. Ken Wright’s Pinot Noirs in 2008 are exceptional but only slightly better than his 2007s from a much more difficult vintage. Perhaps it is in the more challenging vintages that the cream really rises to the top, whereas the challenge in 2008 was to NOT make a really good wine. Tel. (503) 852-7070; www.kenwrightcellars.com