The basic 2004 Riesling trocken smells rather austerely but stimulatingly of apple pip, fresh lemon, and wet stones, and these themes continue on the palate, augmented by a satisfyingly satiny texture and juicy, sappy finishing fruit intensity. While this wine is not on the same level as its 2001 counterpart, it is interesting to note that the latter – of which I recently, with regret, uncorked my last bottle – is ravishing, indeed probably at its apex today. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463.