Gooseberry and lime scent the Fritz Haag 2009 Riesling trocken, which exhibit the tartness adumbrated in those aromas, though also satisfyingly juicy fresh apple and pear, with a distinctive hint of wet stone in its invigorating finish. I would plan on enjoying it over the next 2-3 years. In keeping with recent norms, this bottling relies principally on fruit from Burgen (Wilhelm Haag’s home town), some of whose high-elevation sites already enjoyed excellent-enough reputations a century ago so as to make one both curious and a bit regretful that they are not given an opportunity to individually distinguish themselves. Incidentally, Oliver Haag bottled one third of his generic bottlings with screw caps. “We took a family vote,” he says. “I was in favor; my father and my wife against screw caps. So now I have the big problem that customers are asking for screw caps, but those bottles sold out first!” Oliver Haag picked from just before mid-October until November 10, and the resulting collection is most notable for stunning quality in its nobly sweet echelons, although the volume of each bottling is small (typically the equivalent of 200-300 full bottles) due to paucity of botrytis. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463.