There’s a meaty element here of ripe fruit, beef jerky and smoked bacon. Background notes include clove, exotic spice, toasted nut and barbecue smoke. This Merlot (65%), Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot blend offers a dense, chewy consistency and mature berry flavors on the close. We loved the 2004 vintage, but this edition is on the overripe side.——M.L.(11/1/2009)—— 91