The 2008 Chardonnay Estate is an attractive entry-level wine with excellent varietal character and a long, silky finish. This is a beautifully balanced, totally harmonious wine, especially for the money. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Brian Talley doesn’t miss a beat. This is an impressive set of wines from top to bottom. In general, I have a slight preference for the 2008 Chardonnays over the 2009s, as I find the earlier vintage shows more delineation and finesse. Readers who prefer a bold, overt style of Chardonnay may find more immediate pleasure in the 2009s. The Chardonnays were fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged on their lees in 30% new oak. The 2008 Pinots are terrific, but they need quite a bit of air to show their best. The Pinots were fermented in open top fermenters, using native yeasts, and aged in barrel for 18-19 months. Talley used 30-35% new oak for the Pinots. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2009 Pinots, which had just been bottled.Tel. (805) 489-0446; www.talleyvineyards.com

Shows the weight, complexity and sheer deliciousness that this bottling almost always displays. Chardonnay fans will love the oaky, creamy flavors of pineapple tart, pear and lemon jam and buttered toast. The winemaker recommends pairing with black cod, and if you have a Chinese restaurant that makes a good version of this honey and soy inspired dish, it will be heaven. ——S.H.(12/1/2010)—— 92