The 2009 Chardonnay Estate comes across as quite delicate and feminine in this vintage. It shows good length if not quite the complexity of the best years and looks to be a relatively early drinker. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Brian Talley doesn’t miss a beat. This is an impressive set of wines from top to bottom. In general, I have a slight preference for the 2008 Chardonnays over the 2009s, as I find the earlier vintage shows more delineation and finesse. Readers who prefer a bold, overt style of Chardonnay may find more immediate pleasure in the 2009s. The Chardonnays were fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged on their lees in 30% new oak. The 2008 Pinots are terrific, but they need quite a bit of air to show their best. The Pinots were fermented in open top fermenters, using native yeasts, and aged in barrel for 18-19 months. Talley used 30-35% new oak for the Pinots. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2009 Pinots, which had just been bottled.Tel. (805) 489-0446; www.talleyvineyards.com

Shows the complexity of Talley’s single vineyard Chards, with vibrant acidity accompanying tangerine, orange, lime and mineral flavors, enhanced with sweet smoky oak. Brilliant acidity makes it compelling. ——S.H.(10/1/2011)—— 91