This is from the most beautiful vines in Volnay, said Nicolas Rossignol by way of introducing to me in his cellar the 2006 Volnay Clos des Chênes of his neighbor Jean-Marc Bouley's, grown on old vines near the Monthelie line. Black raspberry and dark cherry tinged with cumin and coconut inform the nose as well as a rather obviously toasty, oak-inflected palate. This is sumptuous if not entirely seamless, as a bit of dryness creeps in, which I am inclined also to lay at the door of the new wood. There is certainly no question about the quality of raw material here, though, and I would advise those not adverse to some woodiness and willing to overlook a bit of roughness for the sake of impressively ripe, sweet fruit to have a go at this over the next several years. I would certainly like to revisit it in a couple of years myself. Various importers, including Benchmark Wine Group, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 255-3500 and V.O.S. Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 967-6948

As big and brooding as Volnay gets, with black cherry and black currant flavors backed by stiff tannins. This is fresh, with a firm structure, though the lasting impression is sweet fruit. Best from 2011 through 2020. 150 cases imported. -BS