Apple, honey and mineral flavors are beginning to develop an antique, burnished furniture and forest floor mellowness. Big-boned and well-balanced, with a chalklike intensity and long mineral aftertaste. Drink now through 2008. -BS

This is one of Alsace’s greatest Rieslings, a wine from the grand cru vineyard of Osterberg. It is bone dry, a style that remains a passion for the Trimbachs. With its steely, mineral character, and its grapefruit flavors, it can seem too austere. But just wait 10 years—the wine will be transformed. This is superb Riesling by any standard. Imported by Diageo Chateau & Estates.——R.V.(11/1/2005)—— 95