Bordered by the three grand crus of Bonnes Mares, Clos de Tart and Clos des Lambrays, but “just” a village wine, so the price is remarkably fair. The 2000 is velvety, and packed with earth and bright raspberries. A firm finish suggests that the best is yet to come; try in 2005.——W.E.(10/1/2003)—— 91