The 2007 Rubesco (Sangiovese, Canaiolo) is a lovely offering laced with juicy red berries, flowers and spices. The soft, caressing fruit leads to an elegant, classy finish. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. This year I tasted the entire range from Lungarotti. The estate continues to excel with the wines that built the estate’s name. The rationale for producing Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay in Umbria escapes me, while the wines from Montefalco remain works in progress. Importer: Bedford International, Larchmont, NY; tel. (914) 833-2725

This is a mostly Sangiovese-based wine that shows special territorial characteristics of Umbria in central Italy. The fruit is lively, bright and fresh tones of wild berries make this a versatile and food-friendly choice.——M.L.(3/1/2011)—— 87