The spicy 1998 Quarto d'Altesi, a 70% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 15% Sangiovese blend aged 15 months in French oak, offers scents of leather, licorice, plums, and cherries. The flavors are a bit of a let down after the olfactory fireworks. With sweet fruit on the attack as well as a lean finish, this 1998 should be consumed over the next 4-5 years. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620