The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is dominated by scents of toasted French oak. The wine’s color, depth and fruit are all remarkable but they are overwhelmed by the oak, which is a shame. Suggestions of tobacco, licorice, plums and cherries struggle to emerge on the finish. This is a perfect example of a Riserva that could have been so much more, as the raw materials were clearly first-class. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2024. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119