A blend of 53% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Franc, 8% Petit Verdot, 3% Malbec, Spring Valley's 2008 Uriah reveals smoky, saline, slightly sweaty notes manifesting a degree of reduction but adding punch and invigoration of a core of dark berry steeped with sage and horehound, and mingled with rhubarb. The bittersweet, candied expression of resinous herbal extracts is arguably somewhat at odds with the wine's tart aspects, but the ensuing tension fits a tight underlying sense of tannin, leading to a gripping if also chewy and mildly discordant finish. (A 2009 version was one of three Spring Valley wines to exhibit stubborn reduction on the occasion of my tasting session there, but it also suffered from rather drying wood tannins. I found the 2006 rather drying as well, its contrast of confectionary and vegetal elements irreconcilable; and a 1999 tasted alongside struck me as well past its prime.) Now part of the Ste. Michelle galaxy, and named for an area 12 miles north of Walla Walla, Spring Valley Vineyard was first planted in 1993-95 by a local wheat-farming family and the first wines were bottled under its label in 1999. Following the early death of owner-winemaker Devin Corkrum Derby in 2004, his French friend and assistant at the time, Serge Laville, stepped into that role, which he retained when the brand (though not the Corkrum family vineyards) were sold to Ste. Michelle. Each varietally-labeled, estate-grown Spring Valley wine is 100% from its labeled variety, and each of the winery's bottlings is associated with - as well as adorned by an antique photograph of - one or more of the vineyard owners- ancestors. Tel. (509) 337-6915

The Merlot-based Uriah includes 36% Cabernet Franc, 8% Petit Verdot and 3% Malbec from the estate vineyards. Perhaps due to its youth, the wine has a bit too much heat and sharpness for its fruit. Spring Valley seems to be sacrificing terroir for sheer power. It’s plenty ripe, but the fruit flavors are blocky, with noticeable volatility.——P.G.(12/15/2011)—— 88