From nearly 50 year old vines picked the first day of harvest, Ente’s 2006 Puligny-Montrachet Referts offers a remarkably refreshing and vibrant expression of Puligny, yet at the same time a creaminess of texture not possessed by any of the other wines in this collection. Bitter-sweet and piquant notes of iris, toasted nuts, buckwheat, lime zest, pit fruits with their pits make for a relatively austere set of flavors, but ones that finish with formidable persistence and intriguing interaction. There is a faint hint of heat, tending to confirm Ente’s conviction that Puligny is inherently more sensitive to over-ripeness.
Ente began picking September 13, finishing in six days. The result is wines of consistent clarity and refreshment, as well as full of nuances that call forth a mineral vocabulary. Use of demi-muids rather than barriques to raise many of the wines here helps ward off any overt woodiness. Eighty percent of Ente’s wine is exported, most of that to the U.S. and U.K.
Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524