The brilliant 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Monte Rosso Vineyard exhibits a loamy, earthy character interwoven with notions of cedar, fruitcake, spice, and oodles of black currant and black cherry fruit. Full-bodied, dense, powerful, and moderately tannic, it is, by the standards of high end North Coast Cabernet Sauvignons, a very good bargain. Moreover, it will evolve for two decades or more.Ed Sbragia, the highly renowned winemaker at Beringer, has settled into his own operation, producing just over 5,000 cases of reds and whites that focus on Sbragia’s strengths, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. He is also experimenting with small quantities of Zinfandel and Sauvignon Blanc.Tel. (866) 222-4342

From the great first-growth site of Monte Rosso in Sonoma, the high-elevation 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Monte Rosso Vineyard is dense ruby/purple and youthful, with tangy and briary fruit in the nose as well as background dusty soil undertones, some licorice, garrigue, and loads of blackcurrants and black cherries. The 100% new oak is barely noticeable at age ten. This wine still has tannin to resolve and has at least another 15 or more years of upside potential.

Monte Rosso red wines are always big, but this may be the most intense Cabernet ever to come from that mountain vineyard. It’s in keeping with the Sbragia style of extreme ripeness and oak. Almost sweet, but really dry, it erupts in black currant, chocolate and smoky oak flavors, and needs time in the cellar to calm down. Best after 2011.——S.H.(4/1/2009)—— 92