The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Monte Rosso (a vineyard site now owned by Gallo) exhibits the earthy, loamy soil character that comes from these red clay soils. Aged two years in French wood, the tannins in this 2006 seem elevated, and the wine is backward, rugged, even rustic. There is plenty of terroir, red and black currant fruit with some weedy herbs in the background. This wine needs 4-5 years of cellaring, and may ultimately merit a higher score. It should last for two decades or more. The well-known, former winemaker at Beringer, Ed Sbragia, has fashioned these cuvees at his home estate. His Sonoma offerings will be reviewed in the February issue of The Wine Advocate. However, I have included his Cabernet Sauvignon from the Monte Rosso Vineyard as well as his Andolsen Cabernet Sauvignon from Dry Creek. Tel. (866) 222-4342

One for the cellar. It’s vibrantly rich and forward in blackberries, black cherries, plums, dark chocolate and sweet smoky new oak, yet very tannic. Creates an astringency that lasts through the spicy finish. It would be a pity to open it before 2012, and will last for years after.——S.H.(2/1/2010)—— 95