A sensational effort, the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Monte Rosso Vineyard is a big wine at 14.4% alcohol. It was aged 24 months in 100% new French oak. This outstanding first growth site, previously farmed by Louis Martini and now owned by Gallo, is famous for its red soils as well as the earthy intensity of its wines. This rich, full-bodied 2003 offers up notes of volcanic soils, charcoal, blackberries, black currants and vanillin in its dense, long, authoritative personality. Having absorbed all the oak, it reveals decent acidity and an accessible style. It is capable of lasting another two decades. The longtime, bigger-than-life winemaker at Beringer, Ed Sbragia, now produces wines under his own label. All four of his 2003s admirably demonstrate his obvious talent. Tel. (866) 222-4342

The 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Monte Rosso from the Gallo-owned vineyard is aged in 100% new French oak and is a top-flight Cabernet exhibiting elegant, spicy, loamy soil notes intermixed with red cherry and some blacker currants. The wine has good sweetness, a dark ruby/purple color, medium to full body, and good spice and earth. It should drink well for 10-15 or more years. Tel. (866) 222-4342

This is the second vintage Sbragia has accessed this vineyard. The result is a spectacular 100% Cabernet, stunning now but cellar-worthy. It’s a big wine, decadent in cassis and milk chocolate fruit that’s massively oaked and ample in tannins, but somehow it all pulls together to make for balance and harmony. Should hold and improve through 2015, at least. ——S.H.(5/1/2007)—— 94