This is one for the cellar. Dry and savory, it shows powerfully ripe blackberry, cherry, cassis and coffee flavors that have been well oaked, and the silky, elegant texture of Pinot Noir. But there’s a youthful tightness that withholds the wine’s tender heart. Best after 2008, and will develop for an additional 6 to 10 years.——S.H.(2/1/2008)—— 96